Chef Larry Feldmeier opens All Well in Chicago with a deliberate democratization strategy. After leading the kitchen at the austere two-Michelin-starred Oriole, Feldmeier shifts toward accessibility without sacrificing technique.
All Well operates on a dual-track model. The dining room serves a five-course prix-fixe menu that carries Feldmeier's fine-dining pedigree. Simultaneously, the bar program offers a la carte bites that signal a different ethos entirely. A hefty late-night short rib sandwich anchors this casual side, signaling Feldmeier's intention to feed different appetites under one roof.
This move reflects a broader pivot in upscale Chicago dining. The city's fine-dining scene, long dominated by tasting menus and reservations, increasingly incorporates walk-in-friendly components. Feldmeier's approach splits the difference. Guests seeking formality find it in the main dining room. Those wanting substance without ceremony find it at the bar.
The timing matters. Post-pandemic, diners crave flexibility. A rigid fine-dining model struggles. A restaurant that serves both the chef's vision and a late-night crowd eating sandwiches captures more of the market. Feldmeier recognizes this. His experience at Oriole, a restaurant that demands advance planning and deep pockets, taught him what happens when a kitchen serves only one customer type.
All Well's April opening puts Feldmeier in conversation with peers like Rick Bayless and Grant Achatz, chefs who've built restaurants around multiple entry points. The difference lies in execution. Feldmeier doesn't dilute the tasting menu to fund casual service. Instead, he invests in a bar program worthy of its own reputation.
The short rib sandwich signals intent. It requires the same knife skills and timing as anything pl